It is not recommended to install solid wood flooring over a concrete slab. Although this is the general rule, there have been successful installations of solid wood flooring installed over dry, concrete slabs. This entails several additional steps. A plastic barrier is set over the slab and taped at all seams. Then some sort of moisture-resistant wood subfloor (marine plywood) is built on top of the plastic film. Then the flooring is nailed to the wood subfloor. If you decide to take the chance be sure to consult with the manufacturer as to their recommendations.
Be aware, you may be voiding your warranty.
With the improvements in hardwood floors most engineered and longstrip engineered plank floors can be used over a concrete slab. Manufacturers do not recommend using solid wood floors over a slab. Engineered planks and strip wood floors can be glued directly to a clean, dry, well-cured concrete slab. Some engineered wood floors can be glued at the tongue and grooves and then allowed to be floated over a special padding that is laid over the concrete slab. Longstrip engineered planks can be floated over the slab with a padding underneath. There are some new “hybrid” engineered floors that can be floated over a concrete slab and come with a click (glueless) tongue and groove locking system.
Note: New concrete slabs need to be fully cured for a least 60 days. Be sure to read and follow the manufacturer’s recommended installation procedures.
No. Solid hardwood flooring must be nailed or stapled and require a subfloor that has no movement. If the vinyl floor is thin and well secured to the subfloor you may be able to float a wood floor over it. . Be sure to get the manufacturer’s installation procedures and check if the warranty.
This really depends on the type of wood floor you have, the finish you have and how deep the scratches are in the top layer. For small minor scratches in a urethane finish you should be able to order a touch-up kit from the store you purchased the flooring from. Be sure to use the manufacturer’s recommended finish products and test first by applying a small amount in an out of the way area. For deep scratches you will probably have to have a professional do a screen and recoat. This is where they use special sanding screens to lightly abrade the floor’s finish to help the new urethane bond better to the existing finish. With some wood floors you may be able to just replace the damaged boards. It is best to leave the sand and recoat, or board replacement to a professional flooring installer, or refinisher.
Although many homeowners have pets, hardwood flooring is not designed for the abuse a dog or cat can cause on a floor. Urine may permanently discolor the finish of the wood floor and large dogs’ claws will probably leave scratches in the finish. The type of wood floor you buy, the color and the finish will also be factor in how much punishment the floor’s finish can withstand before showing scratches and excessive wear.
Some of the better quality engineered wood floors have a 1/8″ thick finish layer and can be sanded and refinished 1 or maybe 2 times. The sanding and refinishing of an engineered wood floor is best done by an experienced hardwood flooring refinisher. If you have heat vents in your floor you can remove a heat cover to get a side view of your wood floor. This will help you check to see how thick you finish layer is. Always consult with the manufacturer to see if the recommend sanding and refinishing of the engineered wood floors.
Before using any throw rugs on your wood floor you should know the type of finish you have on the floor. All rugs should be non-staining, meaning the colored dyes will not bleed. Generally in the presence of moisture, some dyes used in rugs may bleed through onto your floor and discolor the wood floors surface. Also, be sure the rug does not have a rough backing material or rubber backing that may cause damages to the surface of the floor. Clean dirt and debris from under the rug regularly.
To prevent possible shading of the wood underneath the rug, move the rug occasionally.
Gapping in solid wood floors cannot be stopped completely. Wood expands and contracts with changes in humidity. Using a humidifier during the heating months may help reduce the amount of
gapping in solid wood floors. Also, some wood species may gap expand and contract less than others. Engineered wood floors are much more dimensionally stable than solid wood floors and will show little or no gaps between planks.
Most flooring stores carry the recommended felt pads for using under chair legs and other furniture. The felt pads come in various sizes. Some pads just stick on the bottom of the legs and others need to be nailed on. Never hit the pads directly with a hammer. Follow the directions provided with the pads. Check and clean the pads often to prevent debris, dirt and small particles from being trapped in the pad, which may cause scratches in the wood floor’s finish.
Each have their specific uses and the answer depends on your lifestyle and specific needs. Solid wood should be in a moisture-controlled environment. Solid wood strip or plank is usually nailed down, when it will require a timber sub floor, but narrow planks can be glued. Engineered wood flooring consists of a multi-plied, cross-stacked backing with a top layer of your selected species. Engineered wood flooring can be installed in areas where solid wood is not compatible due to moisture.
Approximately 300 to 500 sf can be installed per day on average. However there are many variables and this is a ball park figure only.
You can install your own hardwood floor. However, unless you have some experience of fitting floors we strongly urge you to have your floor fitted professionally.
All prefinished hardwood flooring will come with a lifetime structural warranty and a 25 year to 50 year wear warranty
Yes, so long as the floor is a well secured flat hard surface and is free from damp and/or moisture. We do not recommend that you have any wood flooring installed over carpet
Most floors will change in colour over a period of time, but to what extent depends largely on the species of wood and where it is situated. Some woods lighten slightly when exposed to light and others darken. If your floor is in a room where there is a lot of sunlight i.e. a conservatory, then the colour change may be more noticeable.
Yes. Allergists often recommend bare floors, which reduce the chance for animal hair, dust, pollen or molds to collect. As much as one-fifth of the population suffers breathing difficulties caused by allergies and asthma, often triggered by microscopic dust mites that colonize bedding, curtains and carpets. Bedding and curtains can be laundered, but because frequent vacuuming is ineffective against dust mites in floor coverings, many immunologists and allergists suggest hardwood floors as a way of helping to keep these ailments under control.
Yes, we are able to repair your existing hardwood floor.
Because wood is a natural product it will react to changes in its environment. The most common causes of separations are Mother Nature and dryness. The loss of moisture is the most frequent reason for shrinkage of individual pieces and cracks. Most cracks are seasonal – they appear in dry months, or the cold season when heating is required, and close during humid periods. This type of separation and close is considered normal
Most engineered wood species are suitable to be put in areas that may be subject to excess moisture as the lacquer finish will protect the boards but it is not recommended to use solid wood flooring in areas where there is high humidity or excessive moisture. It is not advisable to leave wet bath mats and towels etc sat on the floor, and spillages should be mopped up immediately. We advise against putting Beech in these areas as this species of wood is very sensitive to moisture.